Ask Caryn – November 2011
Suit Jacket shape for Petite and Curvy
Hi Caryn,
I’m a public interest attorney (read: poorly paid attorney who represents lower income folks.) I am taking a much deserved vacation toThailandin a couple of months. I am considering splurging a little (very limited since I am on a budget) and having a custom suit made for myself. The problem is that I’m not sure what style to get.
I am 5’3″ and wear plus size 18 (US) – sometimes a 20 depending on the cut. I would consider myself curvy in that I have a good sized bust (40D) and a bigger behind (sort of hourglass shape but hips are NOT wide). I understand that based on my size and height, I probably want a shorter jacket and I want some sort of darting/seam to shape the jacket. Am I correct so far? But, how many buttons? 1, 2,or 3? How about the lapels? (I guess I should tell you that I have very short neck – I can’t wear dangling earrings because they hit my shoulders – and ovalish shaped face.)
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
Virginia
Hello Virginia
A single breasted jacket with definition at the waist (side seams to give an inward curve) and a good shape to the shoulder will work well for you. And yes go shorter with the jacket to maximise height – look for one that sits on the waist or hip bone. Details such as princess seams (vertical seams) will also help to create the illusion of narrowness.
For the lapel look for a narrow lapel that tapers to your waist to keep the shape sleek and maximize elongation and height. In terms of buttons, it’s really down to preference but one works well to maximise shape definition.
A tip to test that a jacket fits properly is that it should allow you to bend your forearms upward and press your elbows snugly against the front of your body without creating too much strain across the back.
What to wear with a Cape?
Hi Caryn
I was wondering if you could help me. I recently bought this cape from Next and I have no idea about what to wear it with.
What would you suggest? I am about 5′ 2. Little to no waist and I weigh 9 st 13. I think I’m more on the top heavy side.
Thank you in advance.
Amy
Hello Amy
This is a great statement piece that will literally throw over anything to instantly shift any look.
As you are a more of the top heavy side keep the top half simple (no extra scarves etc). The fringing detail will draw focus away from your bust and the darker print will keep things in check!
This cape will look chic with a long maxi skirt or dress (which will also add height) or a pair of wide leg trousers. You could also try wrapping a skinny belt around the cape. If you’re feeling fashion brave you could clash your checks and try a trouser or skirt in a different check/tartan such as a monochrome houndstooth check.
The cape will also look chic with a pair of short or a shorter skirt, tights and knee high boots as styled here by Next.
Dress up your casual with a simple tee and jeans or go extra smart and sling it over a tuxedo suit or a pencil skirt and blouse look.
The possibilities are endless. Start by putting aside a couple of hours one day and experimenting with the items you already have in your wardrobe.
Have fun!
University Wardrobe for Mature Student
Hi,
I am delighted that I have been awarded a place at a top university to study law and I’m very excited at starting in a few weeks time. I am a mature student and am not especially looking forward to being in the classroom with a bunch of 18 year olds , I will stand out like a sore thumb.
I am 46, and a size 10/12 with slim arms and legs. I have long hair and am probably fairly safe in saying I look about 5 years younger than I am, and I really want to dress well. Not like mutton dressed as lamb, trying to be 18 again but something that will make me look acceptable. I have a wardrobe full of suits from previous jobs and my style is really quite businesslike so it needs an overhaul for the next three years of being a student.
What should I wear and where will I find it. I am more mature than my classmates, but I don’t want them to think I’m out of touch completely!
Many thanks,
Tessa
Hi Tessa
Congratulations on your place at university. Being a student is as much about individual style than anything so I would stick to what makes you feel comfortable and suits you. Fashion of late has gravitated towards a more grown up, simple aesthetic and so you are well within touch. Start your businesslike style and work from there – taking it down a few smart notches or two. That way you also don’t have to totally begin a wardrobe from scratch.
Take pieces that you have in your wardrobe and mix them up with more casual pieces. Jeans are the great staple and will look great with a soft blouse and jacket. A more structured pencil or A-line skirt will look stylish with a simple, minimalist knit. Similarly a tailored pair of smart trousers will look casual chic with a simple plain tee and wrap around long cardigan. Also a few dresses in your repertoire and you can style them in different ways – with the wrap around cardigan, a jacket or a polo neck underneath.
We hope that gives you a few ideas to get you started and good luck!
Outfit for a hot date!
Hi there.
I’m 5ft 7 size 12 little bit of muffin top… I’m wanting something to wear that will make me look slim that I can wear with tights or jeans..! I have bad skins like to be covered up on the bottom. I have blonde mid length hair with a bold fringe in! Please help me find something nice for a hot date.
Faye
Hi Faye
It may be worth looking at the cut of your jeans – a high-waisted or mid-rise pair may help eliminate your muffin top and give you added confidence as well as adding height by making your legs look longer. A trick we always use when out on the road doing shows and styling women is to use control underwear under jeans to give a smooth silhouette and reduce down any lumps and bumps. You can then go for a top in a pattern or colour that you like to suit your style. A blouson style top that blousons round the waist and settles on the hips or one with an empire line with skim over your tummy area if you want that added comfort.
In terms of dresses you could also go for an empire line one that will give you added height or why not try a flirty A-line dress that would look chic for a hot date!
Here are some dress suggestions for you:
From left to right: Rachael Animal Print Dress, £125, sizes 6-18, Coast; Margo Round Neck Lace Dress, £130, sizes 8-18, Phase Eight; Midi Dress with Contrast Belt, £55, sizes 6-18, ASOS
Tights help!
Hi Caryn
In order to simplify my life, I decided in January to only wear dresses (mostly shift dresses, mostly Cos). This has been working well for me, my children, my professional life, my window shopping (limited) and even my bicycle commuting. I have now realised though that the accompanying baggy knee-ed leggings and footless tights need to be upgraded to proper tights. Are brands like Wolford and Falke worth the higher prices? Also, this is probably going to sound strange as I haven’t heard anyone else ever complain about it, but so far, wearing tights seems to give me a backache (tension from the waistband?). Is there a brand/style that I could try out to combat this?
I’d be really really grateful of any advice.
Many thanks
Akiko
Hi Akiko
Clothes Show…how time flies, mind you I was just talking about it on Radio 4 only recently.
I honestly haven’t heard of anyone with your waistband issues before so that is a new one me.
You don’t have to go with tights though you can choose a soft slimline trouser…Cos have some lovely ones right now and these will do the same job as leggings.
As for tights you do get great longer-lasting quality with brands such as Wolford and Falke and their ranges tend to have softer waistbands. The Falke Sensation range has a very soft stretchable lace waistband and the Falke Shelina range has a lower waistband which might also help.
Best wishes
