This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
Romantic Peasant
While early 1960’s clothing and fashion has all
but disappeared from designer runways, the romantic and feminine
peasant look (a hangover from the late 60’s and early 70’s)
was huge in many collections. At some it looked like European folk,
in others inspiration came from alpine milkmaids or America’s
plains and there was also reference to farm girls and gypsies. Many
designers combined and contrasted some or all of the above, creating
an eclectic and overall bohemian mood.
But the consistent thread that ran in almost all of these
interpretations was that designers looked back to past centuries
or decades for ideas and many peasant looks had a distinct Edwardian
or 70’s feel.
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At Dries Van Noten in
Paris we saw the perfect translation of the peasant look. Ironically
this Belgian designer is one who simply couldn’t care less
about being ‘on trend’. The rest of the fashion pack
may have caught up with his ethnic and layered style but this is
a look that he has been doing for years… and with more sophistication
than most.
In his summer show we saw beautiful prints on faded washed out
cottons that looked like ancient tapestries. Craftwork and embroidery
appeared home- made and faded cami-tops were made sexy and dishevelled
over pretty bras.
Making things appear washed out, faded and home made is important
to the romantic peasant look. This is what can
make a garment look original or vintage rather than mass-produced.
In an age where we are obsessed by authenticity and individuality
this is the way designers convince us we have something unique.
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At Alexander McQueen
we saw the best example of how romantic peasant can be mixed perfectly
with Edwardian references. Here he recalls an Edwardian lace blouse
clashing it with a pretty floral print voluminous skirt and a cropped
waistcoat. (These waist cinching but voluminous silhouettes are
McQueen at his best, his signature style in fact).
This mix is perhaps the most directional way to wear peasant,
taking the trends most important elements…the sprig floral,
the bleached palette, the lace blouse and the cropped cardigan or
waistcoat and always keeping the emphasis on the waist.
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In New York at BC BG Max
Azria, peasant had a strong eastern European feel. The
palette was less anaemic than other shows, this time teaming bold
navy & red with beige &white in a look that was obviously
folk inspired.
The silhouette was loose but still focused on the waist and colourful
tunics were styled with the all-important knee length tiered skirts
(a key item for summer).
Again we saw beautiful almost naïve hand sewn embroideries
and deliberate hand craft detailing like crochet, broderie anglaise
trims and cut work. Piecing and panelling fabrics together maximised
the folk theme.
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At Sportmax, the
younger sister to Italian brand Max Mara gypsy frocks came in floral
patch work chiffon.
Floral prints are set to be huge this spring, but in contrast
to last summer's bold 1950's blooms, for 2005 they will be smaller
meadow-like-sprigs in faded tones of pink, beige, green and cornflower
blue.
Sundresses - will also emerge as a key wardrobe staple - perfect
for summer weddings.
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Key Items for your wardrobe
this season
White tiered gypsy skirt
Smocked top
Lace Edwardian blouse
Cropped short sleeved cardigan
Huge pendant
Wedge heel sandals
Vintage boots and belts
Floral sprig cotton sundress
Come and see high street trends for our best tips
on styling the look yourself!
High Street
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