This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
Hippie
Across the seas, we now head to Asia as designers continue
their travels gathering Indian influence and charm to combine with
an already popular 1970’s fashion and trends melting pot.
At some shows the hippie – more 70’s than ever –
emerged fit for the travelling bohemian set and was presented with
a pick and mix attitude to fashion (this style is embodied by stars
like Sienna Miller and SJP and is the focal point of fashionable
dressing now). Elsewhere, other shows gave a nod to British colonialism
and the last days of the Raj.
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In Milan, at Blumarine,
the spirit of Indian hippie is shown as a 'boho' mix of vintage
-look layers.
The palette of softly sun-bleached spices mingled pale coral with
turmeric and highlights of turquoise and azure blue. Lightweight
cropped cardigans and tank tops that were woven in an almost Asian
version of Fair Isle were key. These were layered with breezy chiffon
sun dresses- embellished and embroidered with sequins and mirrors.
Petticoat trims and ethnic metal belts worn around the waist (not
the hips) are important as details, as are bell sleeves and Indian
pendants.
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At Philosophy, the diffusion line
by Alberta Feretti, we again see 70’s inspired
summer.
Flared and bell sleeves draped from sweetly nostalgic empire line
smock dresses. Decorative textile techniques were combined with
the warm and spicy palette of cinnamon and chilli and the hippie
vibe continued with elaborate cutwork on skirts. Flat bejewelled
sandals finished the look.
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A brand that has always used the
Indian paisley print as it s identity is Etro.
This season it is therefore more entitled than most to roam India
for clues.
The best pieces were floor sweeping peasant skirts and kaftans
that paid homage to Zandra Rhodes. Signature paisley prints were
huge and featured on chiffon and patchwork fabrics. These were finished
with jangling coin trims.
Bead necklaces were waist skimming balancing the sleeves that
again were voluminous and bell shaped. Finally cascades of drifting
chiffon were anchored with the heaviest metallic platform wedge
sandals.
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Giorgio Armani
spent most of the last year exploring India and so it is hardly
surprising that we see Indian influences in his s/s Emporio show.
In contrast to many designers who presented a hippie ideal, Armani
called on the last days of the Raj to update his relaxed signature
style of tailoring. This is ethnic with an Italian sensibility,
for example softly tailored jackets with Edwardian high collared
shirts and the possibly not-so-saleable jodhpur-inspired trousers.
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Key Items for your wardrobe
this season
Paisley chiffon Kaftan
Floor length Indian skirt (preferably 70 s vintage)
Jangly coin belts and accessories
Chandelier drop earrings
3/4-sleeve crop jacket
Jewelled flip flops and wedges
Waistcoats
Come and see high street trends for our best tips
on styling the look yourself!
High Street
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