This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
White
Spring fashion catwalks were adrift with white in every
shade, from arctic white to butter cream, alabaster and the palest
of beige. The feel was light and airy following the sombre black
that predominated this winter. Lace, eyelet and broderie anglaise
were popular fabric choices as well as stiffer duchesse satin, silk
organza and glazed linen. These couture fabrics allow designers
to create bolder stiffer shapes and continue to experiment with
volume.
In particular it seems to be the season of the dress and white
dresses were everywhere. Most common were the new empire line or
trapeze shapes in the spirit of 1960s fashion, flaring from the
shoulder and stopping just short of the knee, sitting on heavy stacked
heels, wedges or platforms.
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Some of the best examples of the
white dress were at Chloe in Paris.
Season after season head of design Phoebe Philo seems to have
an unquestionable ability to divine what women want, before they
even know it themselves. This is why this brand is currently one
of the most copied on our high streets. For spring she chose lace,
crunchy organza and pressed linen to realise a new look for Chloe
fans. The new (sometimes voluminous) A- line has a looser fit, hanging
from wide shoulder straps – key for 2006. Ruffled hems also
feature and bows as a detail or a belt. In fact many designers this
season have replaced belts on trousers, skirts, dresses and coats
with satin ribbons tied in bows. The bow has quickly emerged as
summers new belt and hottest accessory.
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White coats are big news when it
comes to fashion trends for summer 2006. They have either a full
silhouette or a slim 60’s mod look. Many have huge oversized
buttons - another detail borrowed from the decade. Another key feature
is that this season’s coat is nearly always tied with a bow
instead of a belt
At Donna Karen in New York, beautiful, easy,
creamy white coats with short dress like sleeves were finished with
giant black bows. (Notice the belt position - sitting quite high
on the waist - and again the black stack heeled shoes). White is
always a popular colour come summer but this season it looks most
modern when teamed with black. This is a new and also welcome combination
as it means all those black winter purchases we made are the perfect
accompaniment to our new summer buys.
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In Italy at Prada’s little
sister Miu Miu, the 1960’s were again an
obvious inspiration. In keeping with this season’s crucial
cues, easy sundresses fell from the shoulder as A-lines or from
the bust as Baby-dolls.
The standard length for 2006 sits just above the knee. Although
skirts were much shorter in the 60’s this new length keeps
retro ideas updated, it is also more wearable and therefore a safer
commercial option for most designers.
Shorter bracelet sleeves are still the most popular, as are stack
wedge shoes - on every fashionistas wish list.
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At Balenciaga
in Paris, what started as another minimal and pared down collection
with simple cocktail bubble dresses, soon evolved into what the
designer, Nicholas Ghesquerie, called his “baroque rock star”
fantasy. As most shows were so neat and simple this spring, this
was an interesting and refreshing idea created by fusing the 2 themes
of architecture and ornamentalism.
In this outfit above, a sharply structured jacket is rendered
in a waterfall of cascading frills. It may be a little theatrical
for most but Ghesquerie is a designer who is always pushing newness
and is usually followed. This look has already been seen on A -list
celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow and as with his previous collections
it is sure to make a diluted appearance on our high streets, perhaps
as a puff sleeve lace trimmed jacket or chiffon frill blouse.
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For your list of essential garments
to add to your wardrobe to make this White look work, look at White
in High street.
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