This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
Modernist
Last winter those at the forefront abandoned their ethnic
layers, gypsy skirts and hipster belts for a new more co-ordinated
look. A womanly shape, in the form of waist cinching belts and pencil
skirts emerged. More importantly it was pared down, minimal and
more elegant than fashion has looked for a while. This will continue
to dominate spring 2006 and fashion trends for summer, where many
designers have again endorsed austerity and simplicity.
The Modernist look is influenced by the simple futuristic shapes
of designers like Pierre Cardin in the 60’s and by 80’s
designers like Azzedine Alaia and Versace who pushed a body conscious
hourglass style.
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In Paris at Stella McCartney
a fiercely modern yet relaxed collection was seen. For
day there were easy sporty pant- suits, smart trousers and loose
blazers that all felt very 80’s. For evening there was oversized
shirt dresses slung on, with a pair of heels and super chic bustier
cocktail dresses in the palest of grey.
In this cocktail dress above we can see a definite nod to the
body conscious designs of the 80’s, but its colour and simplicity
make it perfectly on trend now. This is a dress designed for fashion
conscious women who want easy dressing but are no longer content
to throw on a pair of jeans for a dinner date. It also reflects
a new stage for this designer now married, the only thing Stella
sports on her hip is a baby, therefore it is easy to see how this
simplified and confident approach to dressing has evolved. Stella
is not a designer looking to grab headlines by dressing the A- list
for red carpet events. She is a woman who wants to offer confident
and easy wardrobe solutions to her working mum peers. And who really
cares if these happen to be the likes of Madonna and Gwyneth if
the results are this good.
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Last season the designers name
on everybody’s lips was Roland Mouret, and
thanks to his loyal following of A-list fans (who wasn’t seen
out in the galaxy dress) he is now one of the world’s most
highly regarded and influential designers.
Last winter Mouret introduced an hourglass silhouette to his collection,
the best example of which was the ‘Galaxy’ dress It
had a scoop neck, cap sleeves, ended just below the knee and was
secretly corseted inside. Worn by everyone from Demi Moore to Carole
Vorderman, the celebrity endorsement of this new silhouette came
fast and thick. Come Christmas the galaxy dress was having a huge
impact on our high street and the ‘hourglass’ look making
‘boho‘ look out dated.
For Summer Mouret continued this modernist approach. The waist
was still the focal point but the rigid ‘hold it all in’
tailoring that was such a hit for winter, gave way to looser more
minimal sheath dresses. New colours for ‘06 were pale grey
and his new one-shouldered designs are sure to take red carpets
by storm.
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The modernist look at Chloe
was more retro than at Stella and Mouret, but simplicity and minimalism
were still key. Here the slant was 60’s not 80’s and
retro references far more obvious. Head designer Phoebe Philo had
researched 1960’s ‘old lady chic’ to create neatly
fitted coats like this one above. In mustard – a key colour
for spring - they were definitely chic but with less of the old
lady, and had Nehru collars, the skinniest of sleeves and oversized
pockets and buttons. The length of the coats was in keeping with
the seasons’ most popular length – just above the knee
– and the fabric is important… glazed or metallic linens
are big news this summer
It was a less sophisticated or relaxed take on modernist, but
one that will be influential in stores like Top Shop and Miss Selfridge,
appealing to a younger fashion customer.
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At Lagerfeld Gallery the modernist
look was sporty. Cropped belted jackets directly referenced the
80’s as did the palette, which was black white and Yves Klein
(electric) blue. The silhouette of the outfit above is hugely important
as next season designers maintain the focus on the waist and empire
lines. Cropped jackets over baby doll style dresses are already
popular. But at Lagerfeld we can see how this look doesn’t
have to be always pretty and demure. It can also be modern, sporty
and urban (as it was in the 80’s).
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For your list of essential garments
to add to your wardrobe to make this look work, look at Modernist
in High street.
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