This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
Folkloric
For winter, fashion took a trip to Russia via Eastern Europe,
where designers plundered countries like Poland and Romania for
ideas, taking direct inspiration from traditional dress and creating
a highly decorative Russian fashion look that is all about texture,
colour and contrast.
This is autumn’s natural evolution of all things ethnic
and the look continues to be made up of layers, like the ones we
saw this summer as part of the ‘ethnic hippie’ story.
For winter these layers are darker and heavier and prints and embellishment
are in abundance. In contrast to the peasant/folk look of the summer,
which was predominantly white with delicate prints, the colours
of ‘Russian folklore’ are black with bright contrasts
in red, yellow, pink, blue and purple. Print, appliqué and
embroidery are hugely important and rich fabrics like velvet and
astrakhan are liberally used. Felted wool and tapestry coats finish
the Russian fashion look and really underline the folk message.
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Cacharel in Paris
was one of the best examples of the layered folk look and knee-length
peasant skirts will be an essential part of this look. At Cacharel
they were floral with wide contrasting belts. An extra layer was
added as a silk pleat petticoat -this gives volume to the silhouette
and again adds contrast. Bright red knits layered over pretty chiffon
blouses were a delicate not dour contrast to the heavy feel of the
boots and skirt. These contrasts are essential in making folk look
like sexy and contemporary Russian fashion and less about costume.
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At BCBG Max Azria
in New York a folksy theme that had begun in the spring featured
again in their winter collection. Ethnic and folk is where they
are most comfortable and this season there was plenty of it. In
particular there were belted felt coats, appliqué details,
blanket stitching, floral motifs and black with contrasting bright
coloured designs.
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But perhaps the strongest pieces
in the collection are the sexy peasant dresses sure to be on any
woman’s wish list.
Hippy dresses are still popular this autumn and the best are in
sheer gauzy fabrics, layered up for winter with knit roll necks
or pretty cami’s underneath. And for the true 'nouveau boho’s'
among us, last summers waistcoats can be casually slung on top.
Again bracelet sleeves are standard and belts essential.
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Amongst the charming and naïve
peasant reference, there is still room in folklore for a little
glamour and as usual the best place to find ethnic and glamour combined
is at Roberto Cavalli in Milan
Cavalli can be sometimes obvious and over the top, but he knows
how to have fun with a theme. This season he pushed the folk look
to its limits using vibrant fur, astrakhan and suede, heavily embellished
velvet and luxe metallic gowns fit for any of his red carpet clients.
After all his loyal fans expect to be entertained with a high
energy and high impact show, and this season he certainly did not
disappoint.
Thanks to this huge celebrity following (devotees include Jade
Jagger And Kate Hudson), Cavalli is now a designer who is coveted
and copied as much as Marc Jacobs. Amongst the sea of Oscar-fit
frocks there was also plenty of daytime pieces. These will easily
filter down into high street stores like River Island and Kookai,
who consistently take inspiration from Cavalli’s collections.
In particular chiffon printed folksy blouses, suede boots, embellished
skirts and floppy hats are sure to be a big high street hit.
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For your list of essential garments
to add to your wardrobe to make this Russian fashion look work,
look at Russian Folklore in High street.
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