This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
Victorian Romance
On the winter catwalks a magical mood had taken over many designers
From YSL to Chloe they looked almost beyond vintage styled clothing,
to the poetic nostalgia of bygone eras, stealing turn-of-the-century
silhouettes and the delicate details of Victorian design. The mood
created was romantic, enchanting, often innocent and sometimes haunting.
Designers had been flirting with Victoriana back in spring, showing
high, necked lacy blouses, pearl buttons and pin tucks, but for
winter the Victorian message was bolder than most vintage styled
clothing and possessed by a sense of drama as many designers played
with volume, proportion, heavy fabrics and gothic detailing…black
and white were prominent colours and fabrics are: sheer, lace, velvet,
silk and taffeta.
Although the Victorian message is strong, the result is not
period drama. This is as important of this trend as with ‘
Russian folklore’. Obvious reference to period details and
antique fabrics are combined with minimal black and white. An updated
silhouette and super sheer fabrics ensure this look will be sexy
and therefore imitated this autumn in our shops.
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At YSL Rive Gauche
in Paris, new head of design Stefano Pilati pulled in an expectant
crowd. As head of one the most influential Parisian houses, many
were looking to him for an accurate translation of fashions new
mood. For winter his fashion instincts were spot on, as he, like
many of his peers, showed a collection that understood fashions
current themes need to be restrained and subtle.
Although his inspiration came directly from the vintage styled
clothing of the past, Pilati knew exactly how to update these ideas.
His silhouettes conveyed the present trends for volume and proportion,
and the richly intricate details – like high frill ruff collars
and endless jet buttons – were combined with a minimal palette
to produce something extremely modern and darkly elegant
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If we look to Paris for elegant
translations of a theme it is usually in London where we’ll
find a much more urban and edgy message. By newcomers Gardem,
Gothic and Victorian Romance was translated as a grungy story. Here
the look was less 'Princess' and more 'Ragamuffin', in a collection
that delivered this theme at street level. Layers of washed leathers,
distressed waxy cottons and unfinished seams looked more like urban
vintage styled clothing, but still feminine. Again the palette was
monochrome black and white.
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Back to Paris for a commercial
view and as usual this season Chloe was effortlessly
on trend. Here ‘Victorian romance’ was at its best in
a collection that took all the greatest elements of the theme and
combined them with modern pieces in the house’s signature
style. The result? Contemporary cool.
Season after season the Chloe look is consistently hip and manages
to deliver what young women want by always combining high fashion
and femininity with function.
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Pretty lace dresses in black or
white are also key for ‘Victorian Romance’ and as usual
all eyes are on Chloe to deliver the definitive
dress of the season.
At Chloe the dresses looked more on the vintage styled clothing
theme, nostalgic and enormously delicate, without looking uncomfortably
pretty. The dress above shows how the emphasis is still on the waist.
This is something we‘ll all be familiar with by now, as the
emphasis has been shifting from the hips to the waist for a few
seasons.
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For your list of essential garments
to add to your wardrobe to make this look work, look at Victorian
Romance in High street.
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