This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
Beatnik
In the winter collections many designers looked to the 1960’s
fashion era for inspiration. There was much diversity in this theme,
from the hybrid military Sergeant Pepper looks
we have already seen, to the sharply tailored voluminous
designs, re born from the 60’s archives of [visionary] designers
like Balenciaga and Courreges. The 60’s beat
look was also prominent in shows from Hermes and Burberry to Paul
Smith and Miu Miu. Many designers went on to site 1960’s fashion
icons like Jean Shrimpton and Edie Sedgewick as inspiration.
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At Miu Miu the
beat look was dark and sophisticated. Think of sixties Parisian
left bank students who wrote poetry and smoked Gitanes, and you’ll
get a feel for this girlish, gamine look. Baggy jumpers were reined
in with patent belts and knee length skirts were slim.
In contrast to winter’s full knee skirts, expect slimmer
more pencil or tulip like shapes to be popular – worn (as
above) with jumpers and belts or with minimal belted wool capes
-this will be a big part of the 1960’s fashion look.
For extra Parisian flavour knitted berets topped the look. Note
also the black patent shoes- these are big accessories for autumn.
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Miuccia Prada may have looked to
Paris for her 1960’s fashion style, but surely there’s
no better place to revive the swinging 60’s than in London
and Burberrys Christopher Bailey showed the world
that indeed the Brits do it best. Post performance he sited London
and Marianne Faithfull as inspirational pointers for an irresistible
but solidly commercial collection that will export the Best of British
classics to the world.
Printed fluid skirts and military brass buttoned jackets mingled
with skinny scarves and 8 piece caps. There were also beautiful
Ossie Clarke style dresses, tweed and plaid trousers, tank tops,
winter shorts and velvet blazers. All gently modernised classics.
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At Dior in Paris,
the vibe was sixties mod. This had its best moments in his monochrome
stripy mohair jumper dresses. These were labelled Sedgewick stripes
by the press who are referring to Edie Sedgewick: Andy Warhol’s
muse, who due to a recent film in the making about her life, has
been popularly revived as an icon.
Again 8 piece caps were a styling cue for this story and flat boots
and fish -nets made this look more ‘rock’.
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At home grown Stella McCartney,
there were many references to early 1960’s fashion couture.
In particular the carefully constructed balloon sleeves and bubble
skirts that paid homage to sixties designer Cristobel Balenciaga.
Again the message was monochromatic. This two-tone, hounds-tooth
bubble coat with bracelet sleeves was beautifully cut and illustrates
the simplistic restrained mood of many designers this season.
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For your list of essential 1960’s
fashion garments to add to your wardrobe to make this look work,
look at 60’s in High street.
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