This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
Volume
Volume inhabits most trends this season. Whether it’s
a bell sleeve, a tulip skirt, an egg like dress or cocoon styled
coat, anything rounded is decidedly en vogue. The emphasis is on
couture like fabrics -suitably rigid to create these shapes. Embellishment,
crafty details and anything boho has vanished. Most trends this
season are about covering up and silhouette rather than distracting
surface detail, so it’s important now to get the proportions
right. It seems tricky at first but once you get used to the idea
that the shapes that are the most slimming are no longer the most
important, you’re half way there.
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At Chloe in Paris
egg shaped dresses came in midnight blue, dove grey and sludgy brown.
Sophisticated colour palettes like these can be challenging but
look so much more modern than anything bright or pastel this year.
Dresses came in a mini length cementing the idea that in the midst
of all this volume the long, leggy silhouette and showing a little
flesh is still important. A slither of collar-bone here and some
fore-arm there should be enough. And for the lower half, whether
it is thick tights, leggings or cigarette style trousers doesn’t
matter, just keep it slim as a contrast.
Shoes continue to be heavy as volume needs to be earthed on a
serious sole. Platform soles knock wedges off their number one spot,
but the wedge is none the less still important. Raffia and cork
versions should be stored for next summer: for winter think hardware
and choose glossy patent, heavy wood, moulded leather and metal
details like rivets, buckles or studs.
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Smock dresses and balloon sleeves
are nothing new; both have been hanging around this summer on romantic
dresses and blouses. For winter forget subtleties and go large.
Most sleeves on blouses and coats will be slightly ballooned at
the cuff or outrageously voluminous like at Giles Deacon
left. Either way it’s important to remember that a full length
balloon sleeve does little for girls with hips, adding width at
your widest part – but bracelet or elbow length in this style
are incredibly flattering for everyone, leaving the slender wrist
and fore arm on show.
Again hemlines here were set firmly above the knee and outfits finished
with platform soled shoes.
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The cocoon is a big story for coats
this year. It features the important rounded shoulder, rounded collar
and soft rolled hem. The good news is that most designers have created
this look with padding or quilting, which means we’ll all
be fashionably weatherproofed come November.
(And don’t worry about shrinking sleeve lengths - elbow length
gloves are everywhere)
Although the cocoon coat should be avoided by petite girls (it
will swamp you) for the rest of us it is the cosiest way to live
large this winter and looks good on everyone especially when anchored
at the waist with a thin leather belt.
Burberry
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Volume applies to almost everything
this season from coats and dresses to oversized bags, slouchy hats
and even shoes as we have seen.
A good example was at Marni in Milan where everything
from blouses to trousers were cut with volume showing this trend
is more than just an Ovid silhouette. Raglan sleeves were brand
new for Marni and compounded the rounded look. Huge super sized
bags and thick soled shoes continued the theme
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For your list of essential garments
to add to your wardrobe to make this Volume look work, look at Volume
in High street.
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