This report is compiled by Melissa Dick
Modernist
The modernist look that was popular for spring is even
more prevalent this autumn.
Designers have been influenced by the reason toast to modernism
(the pre war movement that embraced design and technology and promised
to build a better tomorrow) cutting out any fuss and presenting
us with elegant, understated and highly practical things to wear.
Rounded raglan shoulders, tunics, oversized buttons and
minimalism are all the foundations of this look. In true keeping
with modernist style, all frills and frippery are removed and replaced
by a streamlined silhouette that is sometimes spliced by a nod to
the 60’s - Referencing the classic designs of the Parisian
couturiers, Dior, Courrages and Cristobel Balenciaga.
|
In particular it was Nicholas Ghesquerie
at Balenciaga who executed this theme with the
most innovation and success.
Re working old designs from the house archives he brought designs
from the 50’s into the present day, cementing the raglan sleeve,
rounded shoulder, peplum hem jacket and stand away collar as key
looks for the season. Stiff fabrics are important in creating these
shapes and we can expect to see them on the high street as thick
felts, heavy canvas or duchesse satin. Particularly in stores like
top shop and Oasis who reference the more directional and challenging
looks of the season
Sleeves continue to be cropped illustrating the importance of
a flash of wrist when wearing these new proportions.
|
|
|
At Aquascutum
in London (another British Heritage brand that is enjoying a current
revival) minimal tailoring and simple lines were consistent. Double
breasted coats featured cropped sleeves and buttons which like everything
else this season are oversized. Mustard yellow was a key colour
and welcome in a sea of black grey brown and navy elsewhere on the
catwalks.
(A few years ago designers would have used canary yellow, now they
use mustard).
This is a typical example of how the colour palette has moved
on in recent seasons - sludgy almost drab colours are now seen the
most modern and elegant) The high street picked up on this mustard
last season and retailers like Debenhams and Top shop continue to
do so for winter, as coats, knits and mini dresses. |
At YSL the tunic
was revived as the foundation of the modernist look. Expect the
shops to be full of these come September and to stop the look tumbling
towards frumpy opt for short sleeves and leggings or finish with
a waist cinching belt. In addition any trousers worn with a tunic
should be cropped - the ankle is as important as the wrist this
season.
Last winter Stefano Pilati (of YSL) aware that a whole generation
of women out there had never known the waist, unveiled his high
waisted matador look, and in doing so was instrumental in reminding
us all that it still exists.
This is now a look that permeates catwalks everywhere as the focus
now has definitely shifted upwards from anything low slung. |
|
|
At MaxMara in
Milan, leggings featured in almost every outfit. They gave the minimalist
look an 80’s slant and added instant cred to grey flannels
and wool blazers. You will have seen leggings everywhere this summer
and they will be big news again for autumn. But before you make
you’re mind up that you’ll never be caught dead in them
bear in mind that they could just be the single most useful thing
you buy this year. Leggings are not just for teenagers, indeed designers
like Donna Karen have been including them in collections for years
and she herself admits to wearing them almost every day. If you’re
drowning in the dreariness of utility, especially when colours are
predominately grey and black - Leggings give an edge to uniform
looks that otherwise could look a bit formal. |
For your list of essential garments
to add to your wardrobe to make this look work, look at Modernist
in High street. |
|
