This report is compiled by Melanie Dack
1940s Fashion
Many decades from the 20s right through to the 90s were celebrated this season but none more so than the 1940s. The good news is whatever your age or style sensibility you can cover it with this 1940's fashion trend. From elegant tailoring to pretty, printed tea dresses or the new accessories, this look is accessible to everyone in some way.
In particular it was John Galliano at Christian Dior and Frida Gianinni at Gucci who brought this look up to date.
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At Gucci elegant tailoring reminiscent of Katy Hepburn and beautiful silk gowns was pure Hollywood. Perfect printed silk dresses came with autumn’s ubiquitous patent waist belts, thick tights, gloves and platform-soled shoes. Black floral printed silk, fastened with delicate diamante clasps was a simply elegant combination that had just the right amount of sexy for day wear: the high neckline and beautifully draped sleeves ensuring that a shorter flimsy silk frock doesn’t teeter towards tarty.
For evening, dresses came in floor sweeping lengths with long billowing sleeves and deeper cut V necklines, sliced almost to the waist. Still not as full on as the flesh baring designs of the Gucci of old, but exactly what any modern woman dreams of wearing to a special event. |
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Dior
Accessories, from belts to tights were key to the season and particularly to the 40s trend. 'Moc croc' and smaller hard-framed bags replaced gigantic, slouchy shoulder totes. (Smaller, hard-framed bags? Where are we supposed to keep all this polish, powder and paint we need now that flawless grooming is essential?) And chocolate, claret and midnight blue came to the fore. Lady-like gloves, hosiery, hats and belts returned. And for feet the rounded toe, platform soled shoe with an ankle strap was the must-have style. (Anyone attempting an ankle strap should remember that strap placed too high look s cheap and can be unflattering on any leg wider than a pin! Look for a strap that’s cut to sit lower – it will look more chic and expensive)
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Some 1940s fashion looks had a more out-doorsy-can-do Katy Hepburn appeal, featuring masculine cut jackets and wide leg wool pants, but all retaining that air of Hollywood polish with carefully matched accessories and perfectly painted make-up.
Fox fur trim collars were important on knee length belted wool coats and nippy leather bombers that seamlessly spliced the look with the 70s.
Gucci
A Military twist was added with gilt buttons and buckles, riding boots and sporty cut, tweed knickerbockers. Hunting, riding, military and naval details were seen on many autumn catwalks and were mixed with feminine looks, adding a powerful edge. Wearing a cape with a wool skirt suit, or slinging a military double-breasted coat over a silk dress adds drama to the feminine feeling of the season. |
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At Missoni the waist was defined with strappy leather belts or wide waist panels in dresses. Lightweight silk blouses, longer length silk skirts, gloves and panelled dresses all underlined the retro feminine theme.
Dresses came in longer lengths, illustrating how designers seem to be in two camps, undecided for autumn when it comes to this issue. Just below the knee and narrow pencil styles jostled for pole position with the short fuller skating type skirt. Good news for us girls though, as it ensures there’s something to suit different sets of curves and different personalities.
Again the new way with colour was visible. With less black meaning that autumn’s new hues of purple and pink were teamed with grey in every shade from dove to slate. (Mixing bright colour with black feels very 1984 –dark or marl grey is the more elegant choice this season.)
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For your list of essential garments
to add to your wardrobe to make this 1940s fashion look work, look at
1940s in High street.
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