This report is compiled by Melanie Dack
Texture
Metallic colours and embellishment lingered at the autumn shows, but an explosion of technical innovation in the textile industry meant futuristic fabrics and tough talking textures were the big news this season, adding a futuristic/warrior like look to many shows.
Summer’s metallic and retro embellishment fashion trends, that were inspired by looking back to the modernist, 60s notion of the future (work that one out!), evolved into a more forward thinking idea about surface texture, taking fashion into an altogether darker direction. Silver, gold and jewelled decoration clashed with hard-edged, tougher latex, leather, vinyl and rubber, with quilted, studded and crystal covered fabric thrown in for good measure
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At Marc by Marc Jacobs silver, sequined tunic dresses struck a balance somewhere between girlie and Joan of Arc. Pretty much the position many brands want to occupy these days.
Pattern was created using shimmering sequins, applied to a look that is now much more about surface decoration than metallic fabrics like lame or Lurex.
This was also true of the seasons new accessories, in particular bags and shoes, where jewel encrusted trims, metal plate like panels and jumbo crystals and rhinestones were far more important than summer’s more mainstream and now widely copied silver and gold leather. |
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For the older brands, the new hard-edged, almost gothic vibe became the biggest theme. Appearing all over the catwalks from Dolce & Gabbana to Fendi.
At Burberry Prosrum in Milan this tough notion of femininity was beautifully executed with a modern mix of luxurious fabric.
Here, a warrior like woman was cinched tight and laced in latex leggings, studded coats and padded or quilted jackets. The classic Burberry trench had evolved into an array of sporty parkas in a variety of fabrics from quilted leather to ruched metallic satin.
The idea of a ‘lux’ parka was not a new one but looks set to be a big coat trend for yet another season. For autumn ‘07 surface texture and the belted waist (as seen at Burberry) are the new details to look out for. |
At Prada in Milan a fabric focused collection pushed the idea of futuristic texture to the limit as rubberised wool, ruched, coated silk, and plasticized cotton steered the collection into previously un-chartered fashion waters.
Although the collection looked awkward, and sometimes even ugly, (Miuccia Prada herself called it “simple but strange”) any trend that moves fashion in an entirely new direction often does. Remember how you protested about skinny jeans and leggings?
However, underneath the weird knee socks and bulky boiled cardigans, was a simple prevailing message about experimentation with colour and texture and as with all of her past collections, this will undoubtedly be a huge influence on other designers next season. |
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The dramatic use of fabric continued across the four fashion capitals from beading to fringing and even feathers. These were ostentatious, couture inspired looks that were far too intricate to re create on the high street. They will probably remain on the catwalk only for autumn.
However, for knitwear, a new oversized, chunky look appeared that will undoubtedly become a big high street hit and an idea we will be used to by the time the summer weather disappears and the first cold snap of winter is here.
The look was popular with many designers from Paul Smith to Stella McCartney where knitwear featured heavily, from long and lean bookish cardigans to jumbo knit coats.
The most extreme and dramatic version of knitwear was at Giles in London where enormous, organic looking wool ensembles looked part nature, part armour. Perhaps a musing about our growing, global environmental concerns? But probably just a continuation of Giles Deacon’s personal fascination with animals, insects and plant life that inhabits most of his ideas. |
For your list of essential garments
to add to your wardrobe to make this look work, look at Texture
in High street. |
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