This report is compiled by Melanie Dack
Extreme Shape
Prepare to exaggerate, cinch in and stand out in autumn’s new silhouettes as the issue of shape is still a big one this season.
The waist is the focus of all looks now (so belt up) even though extreme proportions still linger from last winter. Exaggerated bubble-like volume has been replaced by a more subtle effect. Softly billowing sleeves, short full skirts, anti-fit dresses and cocoon like coats, all cinched in the middle, are the remaining legacies of last autumn’s extreme ‘volume’ trend.
At the other end of the silhouette spectrum, 90’s sheath like body con dresses are more important than ever and the long and lean 20’s line, pumped up shoulder and sexy, wasp waist silhouette are new. But mostly for shape, anything goes… just make sure you’ve got one!
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At Aquascutum in London, tight 80’s style bandage dresses sat happily alongside short stand out skirts and coats. Mini voluminous skirts were tailored in thick winter wool, the stiffness of the fabric necessary to create and withhold the designed shape. The short, full, stand out skirt is quickly replacing last year’s tulip and bubble styles as the shape of the season. Good news: it’s much easier to wear and looks good with thick tights and a chunky shoe.
Skirts and coats stopped well short of the knee: hemlines have crept up all summer and there was no change for autumn. The shorter length meant a stand out skirt looked flattering as it allowed slender legs to show and short proportions stopped volume looking heavy - especially in winter weight fabrics. |
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At Burberry Prorsum signature trench coats were completely re-worked and appeared shorter, padded, with abbreviated sleeves and hardware details like buckles and studs.
Last winter, volume came from under the bust or in bubble shapes – the look now is simply updated by reigning in the fabric and highlighting the waist. |
As the continuous play with volume and proportion goes on, so does it’s polar opposite look – the 90s body con revival.
This trend was huge last season and still carried weight on the catwalks as designers continued to reference the work of great 80s designers such as Azzedine Alaia, Versace and Herve Leger.
These designers themselves are now enjoying a revival as a whole new generation of women have been introduced to their style and celebrities like Victoria Beckham (an Alaia fan) and Lindsay Lohan (seen in Leger) have been photographed in their signature designs.
London’s rising stars like Christopher Kane and design duo Preen referenced this silhouette the most and this season saw fellow Brit Stella McCartney also paying homage to the body con trend with her thick jersey stretch sheath dresses. |
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Most shape trends for autumn were a natural progression of last winter’s big themes, ones that we are familiar with by now. However, trust fashion chameleon Marc Jacobs to push fashion out of its comfort zone and into completely new and unique direction.
The restrained ‘long and lean’ look seen on his catwalk in New York was reminiscent of the 1920s (art deco accessories underlined this statement) and when combined with a hint of the 70s (by way of jumpsuits, high-waisted trousers, blazers and nippy shoulder totes) was the newest look of the season.
Indeed the return of blazers and high-waisted wide legs gives every look a 70s flavour now.
Although at first glance this new narrow silhouette felt a little odd and restrained, expect it to be a key direction that other designers will follow next spring. |
For your list of essential Extreme Shape
fashion garments to add to your wardrobe to make this look work,
look at Extreme Shape in High street. |
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